Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Recipe from the other France


When Americans think of France they see Paris, Provence, Normandie, French Riviera, Burgundy and Bordeaux Regions and for some of them, Brittany, Alps and others might even now the “Cote Basque” and Corsica. Very rarely you will ear about Guadeloupe, Martinique, Cayenne or New Caledonia. All those territories or so called “departement” for some of them, are only known by French because they are French speaking territories and reached by French Airlines.

One of my favourite places is Reunion Island. The landscape is very similar to Oahu island Hawaii. The “Piton des Neiges” volcano rises at more than 10,000 feet (3,070 meters) Previously named “Ile Bourbon” it is located in the Indian Ocean East of Madagascar. If you look closely near Reunion on Google, you will find a more famous Island called Mauritius, known for the beaches and resorts but far less beautiful.
Before you get bored with all the Wikipedia talking, I will just add that Reunionnaise culture is a blend of European, African, Asian, Chinese and insular tradition. So imagine the richness of their food!

Today I will give you the recipe of my favourite Chef Paul Bocuse called “Lamb Masala” or Massale d’Agneau” in French. Served at “Brasserie de l’Ouest” in Lyon, this recipe has been modified from its origin to comply with the ingredients we can find in France and in the US. Cabri (sort of a mountain goat) or the original mix of 4 to 7 spices would be to hard to find and your guests will be long gone before you return to your kitchen.

So here it goes:

MASALA
3 lb shoulder of lamb, boned and jointed
2 onions (white)
7 ounces of butter (I said butter, not those “I can’t believe it’s not butter” stuffs!!!)
5 garlic cloves
2 carrots (same a before, not canned stuffs, real carrots!)
4 large tomatoes
2 springs fresh thyme
1 tablespoon of Massale or garam masala
2 cups of chicken stock (a bit more if necessary)
Salt, freshly ground pepper

GARNISH
18 medium size potatoes
1.4 ounces fresh ginger
4 ounces of Mangetout peas (Mange tout in French means “Eat all”)
1 onion (white)
2 tablespoons groundnut oil (oh yes you gonna buy it! No olive or engine oil in Massale)
Pinch of Saffron powder (yeah I know the feeling, depends on the size of your finger right?)
Salt (same as above)

Preparation:
Peel and chop the onions. Fry them in a little butter till they begin to brown. Turn off TV and concentrate. Set aside
Chop the garlic, dice the carrots and quarter the tomatoes. Do not forget to get those tomatoes stickers out and rinse them.
Season the lamb with salt and pepper, and brown it in butter in a casserole.
When it is nice and brown (not burnt) add the onions, garlic, tomatoes and thyme. Cook gently for a moment (don’t ask) then add the spice mixture. Stir in the stock.
Simmer gently for about 1 hour and 30 minutes without covering.

Garnish:
Prepare the other vegetables while the lamb is cooking.
Peel and wash the potatoes. Peel and finely chop the ginger.
Wash and cut the Mangetout peas lengthwise.
Peel and finely chop the onion.
Stop the bleeding and get a bandage. Call 911 if the blood still flows.

Cook the potatoes in salted boiling water flavoured with saffron.
Gently fry the ginger and onion in oil, adding the peas halfway through. Do not let the vegetables colour. Why? Because I said so!

Once the meat is cooked, reserve the pieces on a plate.
Pass the sauce through a fine sieve, squeezing the goodness out of vegetables with a wooden spoon, before discarding them.
Check the seasoning of the sauce.

Serving:
Get a banana leaf, poor the mix on it at the middle of the table and you are in Reunion Island!
On the American soil, put portions of the lamb and sauce in soup bowls, arranging potatoes around the outside and sprinkling the pan-fried vegetables on top.

Bon appétit!